Pen and Sword Tour II

Last year, fifteen intrepid readers (seventeen at one point, but that’s a long story) joined me in Athens and spent eleven days touring mainland Greece.  This is us at the Lion Gate at Mycenae.

Look, I’m biased, but it was incredible.  For about ten years, my friend Aliki Hamosfakidou of Dolphin Hellas had egged me on to run an author-based historical tour, and I had… resisted her.  I imagined–heck, I don’t know what I imagined, but let me tell you what I didn’t imagine… I didn’t imagine the best tour of my life with fifteen instant new friends who all shared my passion for Ancient Greece.

So, of course, we are going to do it again.  This fall.  The tour will start the day after the reenactment of the Battle of Marathon

And we’ll follow the itinerary below.  Prices and fees and stuff are at the end.  Here’s my unpaid advertisement.  The company last year was excellent.  The food was very good, the hotels, wonderful, and the scenery and historical sites so breath-taking, so (literally) awesome that we began to mutter ‘look, another incredible view. How do they do this?’ and ‘Wow, another battlefield.’  We have our own bus, which may sound lame, but proved to be like having a small, and supremely comfortable land-yacht.  With excellent wifi.  Finally, as a many, many-time veteran of visiting Greece, the tour is cheaper than almost anything you could arrange on your own.  Oh, and there’s me, if you think that’s good, and a full day of demonstrations of Ancient Greek weapons and tactics (and Persians ditto) at Plataea!  Oh, and I teach a sword class every morning.  Free.

This is our class at Delphi, complete with breath-taking view and massive hangover.

See?  You want to come.

We have roughly 30 slots, and I suspect 14 of them are already spoken for.

ITINERARY (Option A)
Day 1 (Nov. 2, Monday): Each guest will be arriving separately. Individual transfers to the hotel by private taxi (maximum 3 persons). Overnight in Athens. Meals: –

Day 2 (Nov. 3, Tuesday): The day begins with a walking tour of the Acropolis and its monuments: the Theatre of Dionysus, on the site where Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes gave their plays to the city; we then follow the peripatos, the ancient track around the Acropolis, before climbing the sacred rock to view the city’s most renowned artistic and architectural achievements. Passing through the great gateway of the Propylaea, we will see the fabled temples of Periclean Athens – Athena Nike nestling on the rock’s shoulder, the Erechteion with its patient caryatids and the incomparable Parthenon. We will then visit the New Acropolis Museum where you can see some of the finest ancient treasures a mere stone’s throw from where they were found. Lunch break (own arrangements). In the afternoon visit the National Archaeological Museum, a bona fide powerhouse of a museum. In the evening, we will have a welcome dinner in a local restaurant. Overnight in Athens. Meals: breakfast, welcome dinner
Day 3 (Nov. 4, Wednesday): We will first visit “Olympias”, a replica of an Athenian triereme. These illustrious vessels played an imperative role during what is regarded as one of the most important battles of antiquity, the naval battle of Salamis. We will stop to view the straights where the battle between an Alliance of Greek city-states and the Persian Empire was fought in 480 BC. We will then set out to the Peloponnese. We will make a short stop at the late 19th century Corinth Canal, the cutting of which arguably transformed the Peloponnese from a peninsula into an island. We move on to visit Acrocorinth, the Acropolis of Ancient Corinth and according to many, the most impressive fortress of the Greek mainland. We then continue to Nemea, an area renowned for its wine production. Here we will have the first wine tasting of the trip. Our end destination for the day is Nauplion, a most attractive town, one of the best preserved and once a capital of the newly liberated Greek state. Overnight in Nauplion. Meals: breakfast, lunch, wine tasting
Day 4 (Nov. 5, Thursday): In the morning, we make our way to Mystras, the capital of the medieval Despotate of the Morea (an alternate name for the Peloponnese). Among the most important of all Byzantine sites, its ruins, comprising a castle, city walls, the Palace of the Despots and a whole range of elaborately decorated churches and monasteries, make for an unforgettably atmospheric visit. After lunch, we stop at the Acropolis of Sparta, which still bares traces of the past glory. Return to Nauplion for the night. Overnight in Nauplion. Meals: breakfast, lunch
Day 5 (Nov. 6, Friday): In the morning we visit the vast Bronze Age citadel of Mycenae, King Agamemnon’s capital in Greek myth, with its Cyclopean walls and the Lion Gate. After lunch, we set out for the eastern Argolid, stopping to cross the world’s oldest standing bridge (of Mycenaean date) before reaching the Sanctuary of Asklepios, the God of Healing, at Epidauros. The site, set in peaceful scenery that might be the secret of its therapeutic qualities, features the best-preserved ancient theatre in Greece, praised for its superb acoustics and perfect proportions. Overnight in Nauplion. Meals: breakfast, lunch
Day 6 (Nov. 7, Saturday): In the early morning we will visit the superb Archaeological Museum to admire its important prehistoric collections, including the Dendra Panoply, one of the world’s oldest surviving suits of full body armour. We then depart for Tiryntha, famous for its Cyclopean walls and palatial ruins. In ancient times the sea level was higher and therefore closer to the raised hillock on which the citadel was built making it almost impregnable although it is only 26m above sea level. Time permitting, we will also stop on the way at Mantinia, the stage of two important battles. The first battle, in 418 BC, was the largest land battle of the Peloponnesian War. On one side were Sparta and its remaining allies, and on the other were Athens, its allies, plus the cities that had revolted against the Spartans. The second battle, in 362 BC, led to the fall of Theban hegemony. In that battle, Athens and Sparta were allied. Thebes won the battle, but its greatest general, Epaminondas, was killed in the fighting. Our end destination for the day is Olympia. Overnight in Olympia. Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 7 (Nov. 8, Sunday): In the morning, we tour the superlative site of Olympia. The great sanctuary of Zeus, famous for the quadrennial festival and athletic contests in honour of the God, established in 776 BC. The vast site, set amongst olive trees and between two rivers, includes temples and sanctuaries, but also the training grounds and gymnasia used by athletes and the venerable stadium, according to legend founded by the hero Herakles (Hercules) himself. The excellent site museum contains a vast collection of ancient Greek weaponry and armour, the wonderful sculptures from the Temple of Zeus and the Hermes of Praxiteles, one of the very few surviving works by one of antiquity’s greatest sculptors. We then depart for Delphi, enjoying en route a lunch with wine tasting at a local winery. Overnight in Delphi. Meals: breakfast, lunch
Day 8 (Nov. 9, Monday): The pan-Hellenic sanctuary of Delphi, where the oracle of Apollo spoke, was the site of the omphalos, the ‘navel of the world’. Blending harmoniously with the superb landscape and charged with sacred meaning, Delphi in the 6th century B.C. was indeed the religious centre and symbol of unity of the ancient Greek world. We will explore in detail some of the prime monuments of the site, including the Temple of Apollo, the Treasury of the Athenians, the Altar of the Chains and the Tholos. The afternoon and evening are at disposal. Among other things, people can attend a short ceramics workshop or go horse riding or hiking through the antique olive grove of Amfissa. Overnight in Delphi. Meals: breakfast, dinner
Day 9 (Nov. 10, Tuesday): Drive back to Athens, stopping en route at Cheronia and Platees (we could perhaps also include the museum in Thebes). Back to Athens. Farewell dinner & overnight in Athens. Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 10 (Nov. 11, Tuesday): Individual transfers to the airport & departure. The airport is 30kms from the city centre and takes about 40 minutes.

ITINERARY (Option A)
Day 1 (Nov. 2, Monday): Each guest will be arriving separately. Individual transfers to the hotel by private taxi (maximum 3 persons). Overnight in Athens. Meals: –

Day 2 (Nov. 3, Tuesday): The day begins with a walking tour of the Acropolis and its monuments: the Theatre of Dionysus, on the site where Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes gave their plays to the city; we then follow the peripatos, the ancient track around the Acropolis, before climbing the sacred rock to view the city’s most renowned artistic and architectural achievements. Passing through the great gateway of the Propylaea, we will see the fabled temples of Periclean Athens – Athena Nike nestling on the rock’s shoulder, the Erechteion with its patient caryatids and the incomparable Parthenon. We will then visit the New Acropolis Museum where you can see some of the finest ancient treasures a mere stone’s throw from where they were found. Lunch break (own arrangements). In the afternoon visit the National Archaeological Museum, a bona fide powerhouse of a museum. In the evening, we will have a welcome dinner in a local restaurant. Overnight in Athens. Meals: breakfast, welcome dinner
Day 3 (Nov. 4, Wednesday): We will first visit “Olympias”, a replica of an Athenian triereme. These illustrious vessels played an imperative role during what is regarded as one of the most important battles of antiquity, the naval battle of Salamis. We will stop to view the straights where the battle between an Alliance of Greek city-states and the Persian Empire was fought in 480 BC. We will then set out to the Peloponnese. We will make a short stop at the late 19th century Corinth Canal, the cutting of which arguably transformed the Peloponnese from a peninsula into an island. We move on to visit Acrocorinth, the Acropolis of Ancient Corinth and according to many, the most impressive fortress of the Greek mainland. We then continue to Nemea, an area renowned for its wine production. Here we will have the first wine tasting of the trip. Our end destination for the day is Nauplion, a most attractive town, one of the best preserved and once a capital of the newly liberated Greek state. Overnight in Nauplion. Meals: breakfast, lunch, wine tasting
Day 4 (Nov. 5, Thursday): In the morning, we make our way to Mystras, the capital of the medieval Despotate of the Morea (an alternate name for the Peloponnese). Among the most important of all Byzantine sites, its ruins, comprising a castle, city walls, the Palace of the Despots and a whole range of elaborately decorated churches and monasteries, make for an unforgettably atmospheric visit. After lunch, we stop at the Acropolis of Sparta, which still bares traces of the past glory. Return to Nauplion for the night. Overnight in Nauplion. Meals: breakfast, lunch
Day 5 (Nov. 6, Friday): In the morning we visit the vast Bronze Age citadel of Mycenae, King Agamemnon’s capital in Greek myth, with its Cyclopean walls and the Lion Gate. After lunch, we set out for the eastern Argolid, stopping to cross the world’s oldest standing bridge (of Mycenaean date) before reaching the Sanctuary of Asklepios, the God of Healing, at Epidauros. The site, set in peaceful scenery that might be the secret of its therapeutic qualities, features the best-preserved ancient theatre in Greece, praised for its superb acoustics and perfect proportions. Overnight in Nauplion. Meals: breakfast, lunch
Day 6 (Nov. 7, Saturday): In the early morning we will visit the superb Archaeological Museum to admire its important prehistoric collections, including the Dendra Panoply, one of the world’s oldest surviving suits of full body armour. We then depart for Tiryntha, famous for its Cyclopean walls and palatial ruins. In ancient times the sea level was higher and therefore closer to the raised hillock on which the citadel was built making it almost impregnable although it is only 26m above sea level. Time permitting, we will also stop on the way at Mantinia, the stage of two important battles. The first battle, in 418 BC, was the largest land battle of the Peloponnesian War. On one side were Sparta and its remaining allies, and on the other were Athens, its allies, plus the cities that had revolted against the Spartans. The second battle, in 362 BC, led to the fall of Theban hegemony. In that battle, Athens and Sparta were allied. Thebes won the battle, but its greatest general, Epaminondas, was killed in the fighting. Our end destination for the day is Olympia. Overnight in Olympia. Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 7 (Nov. 8, Sunday): In the morning, we tour the superlative site of Olympia. The great sanctuary of Zeus, famous for the quadrennial festival and athletic contests in honour of the God, established in 776 BC. The vast site, set amongst olive trees and between two rivers, includes temples and sanctuaries, but also the training grounds and gymnasia used by athletes and the venerable stadium, according to legend founded by the hero Herakles (Hercules) himself. The excellent site museum contains a vast collection of ancient Greek weaponry and armour, the wonderful sculptures from the Temple of Zeus and the Hermes of Praxiteles, one of the very few surviving works by one of antiquity’s greatest sculptors. We then depart for Delphi, enjoying en route a lunch with wine tasting at a local winery. Overnight in Delphi. Meals: breakfast, lunch
Day 8 (Nov. 9, Monday): The pan-Hellenic sanctuary of Delphi, where the oracle of Apollo spoke, was the site of the omphalos, the ‘navel of the world’. Blending harmoniously with the superb landscape and charged with sacred meaning, Delphi in the 6th century B.C. was indeed the religious centre and symbol of unity of the ancient Greek world. We will explore in detail some of the prime monuments of the site, including the Temple of Apollo, the Treasury of the Athenians, the Altar of the Chains and the Tholos. The afternoon and evening are at disposal. Among other things, people can attend a short ceramics workshop or go horse riding or hiking through the antique olive grove of Amfissa. Overnight in Delphi. Meals: breakfast, dinner
Day 9 (Nov. 10, Tuesday): Drive back to Athens, stopping en route at Cheronia and Platees

. Back to Athens. Farewell dinner & overnight in Athens. Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 10 (Nov. 11, Tuesday): Individual transfers to the airport & departure. The airport is 30kms from the city centre and takes about 40 minutes.

Min. Number of Paying Participants 20 (9 already signed as of 15 May)
In single room EUR 1370
In double/twin room EUR 1195
In triple room (adult) EUR 1150
In triple room (child under 18) EUR 1057

The prices are per person, in EURO, net to you and include the following services:
– 9 overnights in good 3* superior & 4* hotels (3 in Athens, 3 in Nauplion, 1 in Olympia, 2 in Delphi).
– Breakfast in the hotels everyday
– 4 dinners (1 at the hotel, 3 in local restaurants, including the welcome and farewell dinner) & 6 lunches (1 in a winery, 5 in local restaurants)
– 2 wine tastings in local wineries
– A/C modern bus of maximum 40 seats for the program (day 2 through day 9) with free WiFi
– A/C Mercedes taxi for the arrival & departure transfer (day 1 & day 10) with max. 3 persons per taxi
– Professional licensed English-speaking guide for the program (day 2 through day 9)
– English speaking escort for your two dinners in Athens
– All expenses of the driver and guide (meals, overnights, insurance, overtime) during the mainland tour (Day 3-9)
– Tolls, fuel & parking expenses

Also note that the Euro is down, and that if you want to stay in beautiful hotels, you probably couldn’t beat these prices per day–without a guide, a bus, historical fencing, and companionship…

Want to come?  10% deposit to Aliki.  First come, first served, and we cap at 32.  BTW, I feel I need to say I make no money from this whatsoever.  But it is REALLY fun.  And again, I am there, all the time.  That can be fun or really dull…

Aliki Hamosfakidou <Aliki@dolphin-hellas.gr>